Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo
You’re in front of the Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo—one of Rome’s minor basilicas and a titular church, run by the Augustinian order. It sits on the north side of Piazza del Popolo, squeezed between the Pincian Hill and Porta del Popolo, where the Via Flaminia begins—so for many travellers, this would’ve been the first church they reached on entering the city from the north. The origin story gets delightfully dramatic. The legend ties the site to the “evil memory” of Nero: after his suicide, he was said to have been buried near the Pincian Hill, and a walnut tree that grew on the ruins was believed to attract demons who harassed locals and incoming travellers. In the tale, Pope Paschal II deals with the menace after fasting and praying for three days. Artist-wise, the basilica is packed: works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Caravaggio, and Donato Bramante are among the names linked with the church’s interior. …
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