Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone
Sant’Agnese in Agone—also called Sant’Agnese in Piazza Navona—puts you right on one of Rome’s most charged stages: the Piazza Navona, where Saint Agnes was martyred in the ancient Stadium of Domitian. This 17th-century Baroque church was begun in 1652, and it has a very personal backstory: Pope Innocent X launched the project, with his Palazzo Pamphili standing next door and the church conceived as something like a family chapel annex. Design work started with Girolamo Rainaldi and Carlo Rainaldi, and when disputes flew, Francesco Borromini became the other major architect in the mix. Even the entrance was rethought: the plan shifted toward the piazza itself, rather than a nearby street block. Today, the church is a titular deaconry—the current Cardinal-Deacon is Gerhard Ludwig Müller—and it’s not only for worship. The Borromini Sacristy also hosts regular classical concerts, from sacred Baroque works to chamber music and opera.
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