Chiesa di San Zulian
San Zulian, or Chiesa di San Giulian, sits on the Mercerie—the main shopping street of Venice—and its story begins long before the Renaissance façade you see today. The church was originally built in the 9th century, then underwent multiple reconstructions, likely including changes after the 1105 fire that affected the neighborhood. What dominates the building’s identity is the façade: it was constructed between 1553 and 1554 by Jacopo Sansovino, then completed after his death in 1570 by Alessandro Vittoria. Scholar Tommaso Rangone paid for the flattened classical temple front, and a bronze seated portrait of him appears above the door. In Rangone’s hands are sarsaparilla and guaiacum, plants he used in treatments for syphilis and yellow fever—a rare glimpse of Renaissance science built into church art. …
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